It’s been called by many, “the very best trail in the Sierras”.
I’d characterize it as perhaps the very best 3 day/2 night backpacking trip in the Sierras.
What trail am I talking about? The Thousand Island Loop Trail of course.
Hiking The Thousand Island Lake Loop With Ediza Lake (Ansel Adams Wilderness, CA)
Map & Trail Overview
Depending on who you ask, the Thousand Island Loop Trail actually goes by several names like, “The Ediza Lake Trail”, “The Ansel Adams Trail”, “Banner Peak Loop”, but they are all the same thing.
This trail treks along choice portions of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), the John Muir Trail (JMT), and the Shadow Creek/River Trails in the Ansel Adams Wilderness – somewhere between Yosemite National Park and Devils Postpile National Monument – in California’s Sierra Nevada mountain range.
The Important Information & Stats:
- Trailhead Location: Agnew Meadows, Devils Postpile National Monument, California, USA
- Type: Backpacking Loop Hike
- Direction Hiked: Counter-clockwise
- Permits Required: Yes
- Mileage: 25 Miles(ish)
- Elevation Change: 2100+ feet
- Duration: 3 Days / 2 Nights
- Parking: Small parking lot in Agnew Meadows (it fills up quick); or alternately take the bus into Devils Postpile from the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area and get dropped off at stop #1.
Day 1: Agnew Meadows To The Thousand Island Lake Area (9 miles)
Day 1/Section 1: Trailhead To Shadow Lake Overlook
The first section of trail climbs quickly out of Agnew Meadows before settling in on the aptly named “High Trail”.
For the most part, this section climbs gently, but steadily, to the overlook. There is plenty of shade and water sources.
Banner Peak becomes visible in the distance.
Taking a rest in the shade
There are frequent water sources along most of the High Trail (PCT)
Watch for the mule trains
Lunch at Shadow Lake Overlook
The unmarked Shadow Lake Overlook is an ideal spot to grab lunch and take in the views.
Day 1/Section 2: Continue Along The High Trail To The Thousand Island Lake Area
The next stretch of trail levels out even more, making for a long, straight, easy hike.
The one challenge here is exposure. There are trees, but they are noticeably fewer and farther between.
However, the further up the trail you go, the more forested it will get. You’ll be standing in lush green meadows in no time!
As you pass the junction with the River Trail, you’ll encounter the day’s steepest section of trail as you climb up toward the Thousand Island Lake area.
Back on the road
The Shadow Creek drainage
Looking backward toward Agnew Meadows
Banner Peak
A “secret” camping spot with a view
A fungus amongst us
Remember those lush green meadows I was talking about?
Badger Lakes
The Thousand Island Lake Area
Before long, Banner Peak will once again pop into view.
To make it to the lake, you must first trek along a rocky, but stunningly picturesque area.
You’ll know you made it to Thousand Island Lake once you run into the all the traffic. Yes, it’s crowded.
Although there is camping everywhere here, I’d recommend making it to at least Emerald Lake if possible.
We went a step further and camped at the wonderful Ruby Lake.
Things get a little rocky
Thousand Island Lake
Emerald Lake
Day 2: The Thousand Island Lake Area, To Ediza Lake, To Shadow Creek
Day 2/Section 1: Ruby Lake To The Ediza Lake Junction (Shadow Creek Trail)
After a delightful camp at Ruby Lake, we left the continued along the JMT until we reached Garnet Lake (and it’s amazing views!).
Before Garnet Lake, the trail is quite exposed. It can get very hot very quick. In addition, there is a long descent on a section of trail comprised almost entirely of scree.
As the trail nears the junction with Ediza Lake, the rivers and trees will again appear to provide much needed shade and running water.
How’d you like to wake up to this?
The struggle is real (on only one cup of coffee)
Garnet Lake
Exposed trail
Day 2/Section 2: Ediza Lake
The JMT will soon run into the Shadow Creek Trail, which leads directly to Ediza Lake.
You’ll first have to make a moderate ascent up to Ediza Lake, which will require a notable amount of stairs and [bridged] water-crossings.
Stairs!
Water refill spot
Ediza Lake
Before long, you’ll arrive at Ediza Lake.
Ediza Lake is a true glacial lake. It’s also the perfect spot to grab lunch and/or cool off with a swim.
Don’t be deceived, it is one bone-chilling, ice-cold, glacial lake.
After an hour or two at the lake, you’ll eventually have to make your way back down toward the Shadow Lake area.
We ended up finding a terrific campsite for night 2 just past the junction with the JMT, on the right hand side of the Shadow Creek Trail, in a section below the trail.
This sketchy footbridge is harder than it looks
Campsite for night 2
A buck stopped by to hang out
Sunset on day 2
Day 3: Shadow Creek To Agnew Meadows
Day 3/Section 1: Shadow Creek Trail To Shadow Lake
From the campground, the relaxing hike down to Shadow Lake was a beautiful and well-shaded stroll.
And Shadow Lake was about as pretty as lakes in the Sierras come.
Another beautiful morning on the trail
Shadow Creek
Goodbye JMT, Hello Shadow Creek Trail
Shadow Lake through the trees
Shadow Lake
Always good to run into friends on the trail
Day 3/Section 2: River Trail Back To Agnew Meadows
The descent from Shadow Lake to the River Trail appeared challenging at first, but it turned out to be a mild and extremely well-engineered section of trail.
Once on the River Trail, it was another straight-shot, relatively flat section of trail all the way back to Agnew Meadows.
The descent from Shadow Lake to the River Trail
The River Trail meanders through that valley below
Another mule train
Scouting out the River Trail
Agnew Meadows!
Bonus Activity 1: Wild Willy’s Hot Spring
After completing our 3-day trek on the Thousand Island Loop Trail, we decided to reward ourselves with a visit to one of California’s many free hot springs, Wild Willy’s Hot Spring.
Totally worth it!
Bonus Activity 2: Erick Schat’s Bakery
Thoroughly relaxed from the Hot Spring, we headed straight for the [mandatory] stop at Erick Schat’s Bakery along CA HWY 395.
Final Thoughts On Hiking The Thousand Island Loop Trail
Wow, what an overall completely awesome backpacking trip!
The Thousand Island Loop Trail really is a perfect little sampler for backpacking the Sierras. There are stunning views, big payoffs (Banner Peak, Ediza Lake), challenging but never impossible sections of trail, and wildlife galore.
Whether you are an old pro at backpacking, a newbie looking for an amazing first trail, or simply just somebody who wants an awesome backpacking experience but only has 3 days to do it, the Thousand Island Loop Trail is for you.
I cannot recommend this trail enough, it was easily one of my all-time favorite backpacking experiences.
Cheers!
